Ethiopian coffee is rarely off the menu at Rinaldo's. We've just received another organic cracker, this time Kayon Mountain, which has an impressive score of 88 on the cupping table. Typical of this country's coffee, it's a vibrant and floral bean that's beautifully balanced.
I'm a huge fan of Ethiopian coffee and this subtle and super-tangy bean is delightful as a pour-over. I love it. But why don't you try it with you preferred brew method and let us know what you think - we'll give you a gift for any review you leave on this web page.
ETHIOPIA - Kayon Mountain ALTITUDE - 1900 - 2100 masl LOCATION - Guji Zone, Oromia PREPARATION - Washed (organic) VARIETY - Heirloom OWNER - Ato Esmael and his family HARVEST - October - February PROFILE - Jasmine, apricot, lime, creamy
The Kayon Mountain Coffee Farm was established in 2012 with the aim of producing top quality coffee in a socially and environmentally responsible manner. The farm is situated in the southern part of Ethiopia in the Oromia region, Guji Zone which is about 320 miles from the capital city, Addis Ababa. The farm is privately owned by Ato Esmael and his family.
Guji is a recent addition to the range of beautiful coffees being exported from Ethiopia. Historically it has been exported as a Sidamo type, but after many years of lobbying, the Ethiopian government has granted Guji its own geographical distinction. While the cup profile is quite similar to Sidamo coffees, some people feel that there is a “little something special” in the terroir of Guji.
New Heirloom coffee trees have been planted on this 240 hectare plot in fertile sandy clay loam soil beneath the canopy of a natural forest. Organic processes are used on the farm with animal dung being the main source of fertilizer. The coffee is harvested from October to February by people from local villages. Some of it is washed, fermented and dried on raised beds and the rest is left for the production of high quality natural processed coffee. Freshly picked coffee cherry is washed with the low density beans being channelled away for a lower grade. The clean high grade coffees are then placed onto raised beds where for around 12 to 20 days’ drying time it is meticulously hand-turned and picked over to remove any defect beans. Finally, the dried cherries are milled to reveal the beautiful natural processed coffee beans which undergo further sorting to remove any remaining defect beans.
DESCRIPTION Jasmine and bergamot florals with lime, apricot, honey and cream.
SCAA CUP SCORE: 88
HEIRLOOM: These varieties most resemble the Typica variety though there is no exact way of tracing their development. There are over 1000 different heirloom varieties growing in the wild forests of Ethiopia. These varieties are responsible for some of the most coveted profiles in the world.
Rin recommends:a pour-over brew method to highlight the subtleties of this incredible single origin. Perfect for Aeropress / Chemex / Softbrew.
60% Brazil: Bom Jesus (Rainforest Alliance & UTZ Certified) 40%: El Salvador: El Borbollon (Rainforest Alliance)
We've worked hard over the past year to perfect our iconic blue label Casa. Given that speciality coffee is all about seasonal harvests, we can confidently reproduce our taste profile with Brazilian and Central American Arabica beans.
We use for the base the incredible Mundo Novo Arabica bean from the Bom Jesus farm. We source this coffee directly from Gabriel and Flavia, the owners, so we can be assured of the high quality of the coffee. (Read more about them on the "NERD ZONE" tab above). This Brazilian bean has an amazing sweetness, yet the punch needed to cut through milky espresso-machine based drinks. So, its the ideal base for our Casa Espresso blend. It's also ideal as a stand alone single origin, for those of you who like extra body in the cup.
As its bezzy mate, we've chosen the typical chocolatey flavours of an El Salvador Arabica. It's a Red Bourbon varietal, a favourite of ours and a delight to roast. Honestly, we're spoiling y'all with this unbeliveable house blend. (Don't take my word for it though ... just look at what you're saying on the REVIEWS tab above!)
So what's our objective? We want...
- A coffee that's got the boldness through an espresso machine as an unadulturated espresso, yet has the body and punch to compliment all milky drinks - A blend of 100% single-origin Arabica beans that tastes amazing, without any hint of the astringency you'll find with Robusta coffee - To remain committed to using farms whose produce is fully traceable. With this provenance, we can rely on an excellent crop from each harvest. And in this way, we can reproduce a consistent roast profile and keep you smiling - A taste profile that has good balance, a full-mouthfeel, with nutty and dark chocolate notes and a refreshing berry finish
Brew Method: Made to measure for an espresso machine. If you have a home espresso machine, then our "blue label" is an essential companion. It's also absolutely cracking to use with a stove top - see our range of Bialetti - a great way to start the morning that keeps to a tight budget. And because we roast fresh at least once a week, you'll get the very best our of this amazing 100% Arabica blend. As we say in Cumbria: “Champion”.
For more information about the beans, click on the "Nerd Zone" tab about ... you geeks, you!
Farm: Bom Jesus Varietal: Mundo Novo Processing: Natural process, sun-dried 30 days of resting period Altitude: 1,000 metres above sea level Owner: Gabriel e Flavia Lancha de Oliveira Region: Cristais Paulistas, Alta Mogiana Country: Brazil
COFFEE The coffee from Fazenda Bom Jesus has a bright and remarkable acidity with hints of chocolate and walnuts. It leaves a very light and pleasant aftertaste. Notes of brown sugar make it a naturally sweet cup. A hint of maple syrup can also be detected. Its stunning aroma is very soft and sophisticated. The sweetness of the coffee is a result of the coffee varietal Mundo Novo and the natural process. The sugar in the coffee cherry is passed on to the bean as the coffee cherries are all dried together, removing the husks just after the coffee reaches a humidity of 11.5 %. The coffee is grown at an altitude of around 1,000 metres above sea level. This allows for ideal levels of rainfall of approximately 1,000mm per year. The constant temperatures of 20-25 C make for ideal conditions for growth of healthy coffee trees and cherries.
FARMERS Fazenda Bom Jesus is the work of the couple Gabriel and Flavia Lancha Oliveira. With a long heritage in coffee culture both are grandchildren of coffee producers. They themselves passed their love and care on to their sons, Lucas and Gabriel junior who are also dedicated full-time to the farm. In 1984 they formed The Labareda Group, diversifying into various rural activities although coffee is still the most foremost in family hearts and indeed remains their main crop. Fazenda Bom Jesus is located in Cristais Paulistas in the Alta Mogiana Region. Gabriel and Flavia are more than just a farming couple. Their objective is to sustainably develop their region from a social and economical point of view. Fazenda Bom Jesus was a founder of the Alta Mogiana Specialty Coffee Association - AMSC. It promotes a greater conscience with regard to speciality coffee in the region as well as developing better farm practices. Performance bonus payments are also made alongside employees fixed wages. Flavia verifies that all employees on the farm must be literate and receive specialized training to do their job. As for the workforce, all their children must be enrolled at the local school.
CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY Fazenda Bom Jesus has over 140 hectares of Natural Reserve where a huge diversity of fauna and flora can be found. Annual auditors come to collect data on both vegetation and wildlife which, in turn, is catalogued by Rainforest Alliance researchers. All the products used on the farm are not only allowed but recommended. As it produces its own compost used on the farm. Fazenda Bom Jesus contributes socially with events such as GIMA – where children from 9 small surrounding towns come to take part in a treasure hunt. Over 400 children participate in general knowledge tests and a sports day on the Bom Jesus Farm. Only state educated children take part in the events and the prizes are sponsored by the farm itself and Australian roasters that also do direct trade.
QUALITY AND CERTIFICATION Fazenda Bom Jesus Coffee was the first Farm in the Alta Mogiana Region to be certified by UTZ in 2006. Every stage must be monitored and recorded to allow 100% traceability of the coffee, which is only one of UTZ's requirements. The farm is a member of the Brazilian Specialty Coffee Association. Fazenda Bom Jesus has also been Rainforest Alliance (RFA) Certified since 2008. The importance of the certification is for both environment and social reasons. Recycling is encouraged in all farm buildings and the correct use of safety equipment is a further requirement of RFA. Fazenda Bom Jesus achieved a scored of 98% from the (RFA) auditors last year. The coffee is certified and exported to over 10 countries including Australia, Germany, USA and now Great Britain.
Acidity – 7 - 7.5 Mild acidity, pleasant
Sweetness – 7.5 - 8 Excellent sweetness with more sugars being absorbed from the pulp
Character – 7.75 - 8 Plum-like, nutty, chocolate on the darker side
Body – 8 - 8.5 Medium to full body
Balance – 7.5- 8.5 Good balance
EL Salvador: El Borbollon
Farm: La Reforma & Santa Maria Varietal: 100% Red Bourbon Processing: Fully washed and sundried on clay patios Altitude: 1,400 to 1,500 metres above sea level Owner: The Alvarez Family Town: Santa Ana Region: Santa Ana Volcano (Apaneca-Ilamatepec) Country: El Salvador Total size of farm: 55 hectares total Area under coffee: 51 hectares total Prizes: Reforma: 3rd – El Salvador COE, 2011 (Score 91.72)
The Alvarez family has been growing coffee in El Salvador for a century and over four generations. Their award-winning farms are located on the lush green hills of Santa Ana, in the west of the country, whose rich volcanic soils and mild climate provide ideal conditions for growing coffee. The beans, which comprise El Borbollon, come from two small neighbouring farms - La Reforma and Santa Maria. They are manually picked and collected in traditional hand-woven baskets from December until March. Only the best, fully mature coffee cherries are selected.
Finca La Reforma and Finca Santa Maria were established by Rafail Alvarez in 1892 on the rich, humid slopes of Santa Ana Volcano. Originally from Colombia, Don Rafael came to the region with some of his best coffee seeds and began a new legacy of coffee production. Four generations later, the Alvarez Diaz brothers manage the farms, which are planted exclusively with red burbon variety coffee trees, despite recent upheavals with leaf rust.
El Borbollon mill is managed by Eduardo Alvarez, whose father passed down his technical skills. Of the 15 high-altitude farms, 10 have won places in the Cup of Excellence and 4, including La Reforma the COE Presidential Award for scores of over 90 points.
Coffee beans are pulped without water and then fermented for 16 - 20 hours until peel fermentation is achieved. The coffee is then washed in clean, fresh water to remove the mucilage. The parchment coffee is then placed onto the expansive patios and dried in the sun and regularly turned by hand.
Clay patios are used as they have superior endothermic properties (absorption of heat) than concrete and thus regulate temperature much better. The coffee beans are dried for 9 to 10 days in this way and the slower drying time seems to improve the cup quality.
The meticulous attention to detail shown at every stage of production - from harvesting to wet milling to cupping - has enabled the family to continue through the struggles of the past 20 years.
One of the most exciting things about being a coffee roaster is the immediacy of accessing coffee beans from across the world, without having to take a gap year and share a hostel with a dozen soon-to-undergrads reading Lonely Planet guides. As well as directly sourcing our Brazil: Bom Jesus, we have some wonderful suppliers who operate on the strictest traceability guidelines that allow us to sample the very best Arabica coffee, while ensuring coffee farmers get a fair payment for their labours.
We've plumped for a blend of Bolivia & Honduras bean for our latest decaf. A sparkling water processed caturra varietal, gives a vanilla and cherry notes that are rounded off by a syrupy mouthfeel.
I've worked hard at roasting decaf to bring out the its best notes (can you hear the violins?). Unhinged fools in my position will tell you, roasting decaf is a dark world, where all but lovers of dungeons and dragnets, dare not venture.) Get it wrong (and boy, for the first few months of my roasting life, did I ever) and you might be sucking wet cardboard through a straw. But do some horse-whispering to that petulant pony and you might be onto a real winner. One thing's for sure, you just can't treat decaf like any other coffee bean. And whatever your views on decaf, as I roaster, I totally respect that and love the challenge.
These beans are decaffeinated using a sparkling water process. For more about this procedure and the farm's provenance, click on the "Nerd Zone" tab above.
This coffee works well for any brewing method, but we'd especially recommend something that works well with full-bodies coffees such as espresso / stove top / softbrew / cafetiere
DECAF - BOLIVIA / HONDURAS (RFA Certified) 100% Arabica - Newly Arrived Sparkling Water Process
BOLIVIA: ARCHANGEL LOCATION: Bolinda, Caranavi ALTITUDE: 1650 masl PREPARATION: Washed VARIETY: Caturra HARVEST: July - September
HONDURAS: GUALME LOCATION: Gualme, Corquin Copan ALTITUDE: 1450 masl PREPARATION: Washed VARIETY: Catuai, Caturra HARVEST: November - January SHIPMENT: February - April
Cup Profile: Cherry, vanilla. Syrupy and sweet.
Finca La Bolsa was bought by Jorge Vides, a distinguished medical professional, in 1958. Prior to this the land wasn’t used for coffee production. Jorge won a number of awards for coffee production and for services to the region of Huehuetenango, and had the main hospital in the coffee growing community named after him. La Bolsa competed in the 2002 Cup Of Excellence competition and placed second, scoring 94.98. La Bolsa sits between two mountains, which provide a very stable, humid microclimate. This combined with the limestone rich soils give the coffee a very unique profile, with a rich syrupy body and plenty of malic and citric acidity. Coffee is fermented for between 18 and 24 hours, and is then cleaned of mucilage, graded in channels and soaked overnight.
La Bolsa is RFA certified & follows C.A.F.E practices guidelines. Coffee Care funded the construction of a school and nursery at the farm, with fully trained, full time teachers. All of the temporary and permanent staff have access to schooling for their children, and they are incentivised to leave their children at school or nursery through food donations. When a child attends school or nursery for 5 consecutive days they receive a weekly supply of rice, beans and corn. Prior to this food ration scheme it was very difficult to get people to leave their children in the care of others, and schooling wasn’t necessarily valued as there is a greater pressure on earning more money to feed the family. As a result there are no children working in the farm, and the school and nursery classes are full. Accommodation is provided for permanent and temporary workers, with separate facilities for men and women and families, bathrooms and kitchens. Sections of the farm are reserved areas, to promote biodiversity, reduce exposure to winds and soil erosion. Inga trees are used as a shade trees, and to fix nitrogen in the soil which is essential for plant and cherry growth. Renardo has an expansive composting operation to make use of waste products, using redworms.
SPARKLING WATER DECAFFEINATION
This process was first discovered by a scientist called Kurt Zosel at the Max Planck Institute for Coal Research in 1967 as he was looking at new ways of separating mixtures of substances. In 1988, a German decaffeination company called CR3 developed this process for decaffeination whereby natural carbon dioxide (which comes from prehistoric underground lakes) is combined with water to create ‘sub-critical’ conditions which creates a highly solvent substance for caffeine in coffee. It is a gentle, natural and organically certified process and the good caffeine selectivity of the carbon dioxide guarantees a high retention level of other coffee components which contribute to taste and aroma.
The process is outlined below:
1. The green beans enter a ‘pre-treatment’ vessel where they are cleaned and moistened with water before being brought into contact with pressurised liquid carbon dioxide. When the green coffee beans absorb the water, they expand and the pores are opened resulting in the caffeine molecules becoming mobile.
2. After the water has been added, the beans are then brought into contact with the pressurised liquid carbon dioxide which combines with the water to essentially form sparkling water. The carbon dioxide circulates through the beans and acts like a magnet, drawing out the mobile caffeine molecules.
3. The sparkling water then enters an evaporator which precipitates the caffeine rich carbon dioxide out of the water. The now caffeine free water is pumped back into the vessel for a new cycle.
4. This cycle is repeated until the required residual caffeine level is reached. Once this has happened, the circulation of carbon dioxide is stopped and the green beans are discharged into a drier.
5. The decaffeinated coffee is then gently dried until it reaches its original moisture content, after which it is ready for roasting.
We're delighted to return to Burundi for our newest African addition. A stunning Red Bourbon varietal, this is a typically floral coffee with a sweet body and notes of red currant, cranberry, jasmine and a bright acidity. It's actually grown close to our current Rwandan offering and has the same spiciness.
For more information on this coffee, sachet over to the "Nerd Zone" tab above
We love pour-over brew method to highlight the subtleties of this gorgeous African coffee. Perfect for Aeropress / Chemex / V60 or Softbrew.
Varietal: Red Bourbon Processing: Washed Altitude: 1950 metres above sea level Owner: Jean Clement Birabereya Region: Kayanza Province Country: Burundi (North) Cup Profile: Red currant, cranberry, jasmine. Bright lemon acidity and a silky sweet body.
Burundi is a country that continues to face immense social and political difficulties. Ntarambu is one of the few privately owned washing stations working hard to improve the transparency of the product and provide good working conditions for farmers.
The flavour profile from the Kayanza region in Burundi is similar in a lot of ways to the southern Rwandan coffees like Huye Mountian. In fact Huye Mountain is only about 60miles from the Kayanya village as the crow flies. However, we tend to find Kayanza coffees are more delicate in character and present farm more floral notes of jasmine, rose and orange blossom.
Mpanga is both the name of the farm and of the central washing station located in Kayanza Province, Northern Burundi. Both are managed by Jean-Clement Birabereye - a 15-year coffee veteran, who oversaw the construction of the washing station back in 2008. The station processes coffee from approximately 3,400 smallholder farmers, who cultivate coffee on the hillsides that surround Kayanza, at elevations of up to 1,950 masl.
To service these producers properly, Jean-Clement has ensured that the station is well-equipped to process volumes of specialty coffee and benefits from 450 drying beds and a McKinnon 6-disc pulping machine.
Mpanga processes roughly 1,500 tonnes of coffee per season, with each producer lot separated and named according to the hillside upon which the coffee was grown. Under Jean-Clement's guidance, Mpanga has achieved incredible results at the Burundi Cup of Excellence, finishing 1st and 3rd in the 2014 competition. As a result of the hard work and diligence Jean-Clement has implemented, Mpanga has become highly regarded for its consistently clean and complex coffees. It's due to these cup qualities, alongside his focus and belief in motivating farmers' meticulous harvesting and agricultural practices, that we have decided to work exclusively with Jean-Clement and Mpanga to source all of our 2017 Burundi coffees this season.
SEGEC are doing their best to mitigate the risk farmers face with fluctuating world coffee prices. They pay an initial fee for delivered cherry with bonuses based on cup quality once the coffee has been sorted and cupped. The lower quality coffees will be blended together and sold commercially with the top performing lots kept separate as microlots. Once the sale is completed with the end buyer SEGEC pay premium to the producers that is a percentage of the premium SEGEC receive. SEGEC also invest heavily in farmer training to ensure the pickers and farm owners bring only the ripest cherries to the station. The bonus payment works to ensure the trainings are adhered to as they can amount to a significant portion a producer’s yearly income.
Back to Central America for our next Guatemalan offering. A great crop of the Bourbon varietal from high in the mountains, where the coffee plantation is surrounded by protected rainforest and a wildlife sanctuary. The La Bolsa farm is Rainforest Aliance Certified.
This coffee cupped beautifully, highlighting the toffee, apricot and berry notes. It has a lovely smooth mouthfeel and a creamy body. Get some while this stock lasts!
Farm: la Bolsa Varietal: 100% Bourbon Processing: Fully washed and sun dried on patios Altitude: 1,700 metres above sea level Owner: Maria & Renardo Vides Town / City: La Liberdad Region: Huehuetenango Cupping Notes: Toffee, apricot, berry. Smooth and well0-rounded body
Finca La Bolsa was bought by Jorge Vides, a distinguished medical professional, in 1958. Prior to this the land wasn’t used for coffee production. Jorge won a number of awards for coffee production and for services to the region of Huehuetenango, and had the main hospital in the coffee growing community named after him. La Bolsa competed in the 2002 Cup Of Excellence competition and placed second, scoring 94.98. The farm sits between two mountains, which provide a very stable, humid microclimate. This combined with the limestone rich soils give the coffee a very unique profile, with a rich syrupy body and plenty of malic and citric acidity. Coffee is fermented for between 18 and 24 hours, and is then cleaned of mucilage, graded in channels and soaked overnight.
La Bolsa is RFA certified & follows C.A.F.E practices guidelines. Coffee Care funded the construction of a school and nursery at the farm, with fully trained, full time teachers. All of the temporary and permanent staff have access to schooling for their children, and they are incentivised to leave their children at school or nursery through food donations. When a child attends school or nursery for 5 consecutive days they receive a weekly supply of rice, beans and corn. Prior to this food ration scheme it was very difficult to get people to leave their children in the care of others, and schooling wasn’t necessarily valued as there is a greater pressure on earning more money to feed the family. As a result there are no children working in the farm, and the school and nursery classes are full.
Accommodation is provided for permanent and temporary workers, with separate facilities for men and women and families, bathrooms and kitchens. Sections of the farm are reserved areas, to promote biodiversity, reduce exposure to winds and soil erosion. Inga trees are used as a shade trees, and to fix nitrogen in the soil which is essential for plant and cherry growth. Renardo has an expansive composting operation to make use of waste products, using redworms.